THE RIVERWhen General Saw Ba U Gyi established the rebel Karen National Union movement in 1949, shortly after Burma declared its independence from Britain, I wonder if he knew just how long the struggle would be.
We are at 7 Brigade HQ, just inside the Burmese border, a short boat ride across the river from Thailand, to celebrate the Karen 60th Revolution Day. There is a large picture of General U Gyi and many Karen flags strung around the large dusty parade ground. U Gyi's four principles of resistance are displayed: “There shall be no surrender; The recognition of the Karen State must be completed; We shall retain our arms; and We shall decide our own political destiny.”
Our journey started in Mae Pa, a small village outside of Mae Sot, where we were picked up by Niemh and Jack. A pickup truck loaded with sleeping bags, mosquito nets, water, toilet paper, backpacks and people ( total of 9) set off on the 2 hour drive to 7 Brigade. After passing the requisite Thai checkpoints and delivering requisite 'presents' , we pulled off the high way, down a rutted road and stopped by a farmer's field. We would walk the rest of the way to the river crossing, 'for security', while the truck drove to another crossing spot upriver. As we shouldered back packs and walked the 1/2 kilometer through fields and hills to the river bank the sun was just disappearing behind the Burmese mountains. Cool breeze on our faces, cool water on our feet as we sloshed towards our boat.
WALKING TO THE BOAT
THE BOATClimbing the short hill from the river bank to HQ, we see soldiers everywhere, many with antiquated firearms, RPGs, some wearing sneakers, and all looking proud. A constant flow of long-tail boats brings hundreds of Karen across the river, against a backdrop of steep forested mountains and valleys. There are people everywhere; along with chickens and ducks and geese. Plastic tarps and bales of hay lie on the ground for people to sleep on. There is a VIP area for military brass and important guests; tables and plastic chairs have been set out and the trees are decorated with bouquets of roses, already starting to wilt in the heat. Paths have been marked out with painted white stones as well as bouquets of flowers on posts. There is an exhibition hall with wall displays of photos and text on KNU history and its leaders. The Karen Womens' Organization is selling traditional Karen clothing and T shirts. There is also a small display of Karen baskets, tools, and fishing gear. All under the ever-present dim glare (a prime example of oxymoron!) of flourescent lighting powered by ancient generators.
Our sleeping quarters are a thatched bamboo platform. The loo is a couple of hundred yards back up the path. There is a cook hut next to us, and cooking fires all around. After sorting out the sleeping arrangements ( there is much discussion about unmarried guys sleeping in the same place as unmarried women.....it's decided that the mosquito nets will serve as effective deterrents to any hanky-panky...) we walk towards the enormous parade ground where the celebrations are taking place. James (photographer) and Tor (norwegian journalist) go off to take photos before the light fades; Niemh, Jack ( his dad is 2 IC here), Trudy, Mike, Nat and I make slow progress as we keep bumping into former students and friends. Stalls selling snacks and drinks, kids running around while the parents and grandparents chat, and speeches, mostly ignored, blare from crackly speakers.
SLEEPING QUARTERS
THE ESSENTIALS
